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Medium Format 120

Public Group active 3 weeks, 1 day ago

120 film in all shapes and sizes. Share your experience and ask opinions

Colour Control (6 posts)

  • Profile picture of one20 said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    This is an even bigger problem for us film photographers than for those who use digital, as adds at least one extra “stage” to the proccess. I am currently trying to get colour under control. My sRGB files for online are ok, but when I print the Adobe RGB versions, I am more often than not, disappointed.
    So I am now looking for hardware solutions: spyder pantone, eye one, etc.
    If anyone has any experience with these products please post them here!

    also if anyone has a spare Mcbeth Colour Checker Chart….

  • Profile picture of Agus Wahyudi Agus Wahyudi said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    usually printing using CMYK colors, RGB only for monitor colors.

  • Profile picture of markbarendt markbarendt said 12 months ago:

    I use a Seconic l-358 Incident meter for my readings, this does several things for me.

    First it improves my exposure accuracy and consistency, this eliminates many exposure errors and that generally improves color balance for all the important subject matter.

    Second, as it happens the meter is gray, with a white dome, and a black ring surrounds the dome. Either just before or just after a shot/set of shots in one lighting situation I take a picture of the meter.

    Regardless of the next step, scanner or enlarger, this gives you your shot data and provides a gray card reference, a white point reference, and a black point reference.

    With scanned images, in levels/curves the B, W, & G eyedroppers can be used can be used even without a calibrated monitor this will give you very respectable color and contrast correction. Your results at this point can be proofed on the printer you plan to use.

    On an uncorrected monitor the image may still appear “off” (look green, magenta, yellow, blue…) but that is a separate issue. The image should be very close to right.

    What calibrating your monitor does is to let you see a pretty good resemblance of what the image will look like on paper, what it cannot tell you is what it will look like on anyone else’s monitor unless theirs is calibrated too.

  • Profile picture of Geoff White Geoff White said 9 months ago:

    Monitor calibration is essentially a waste of time unless you are using Quato, Eizo or Barco monitors. Please visit these manufacturers websites to find out why! My advise is for what it’s worth, leave Hue alone unless you shoot a gray card.

  • Profile picture of Ken Davis Ken Davis said 9 months ago:

    Is it worth experimenting with staying in srgb? Some professionals I know of shoot in srgb and push the file through the minimum of adjusting (having got the digital white balance right in camera so they have that advantage) and send it for printing to pro labs who expect srgb files.
    Most monitors aren’t capable of showing you the difference between Adobe RBG and srgb, you may have one like the above that does but if not you’re working in a colour space you can’t see?????

  • Profile picture of Geoff White Geoff White said 9 months ago:

    My advice is scan in RGB. Use a colour/gray target when shooting (one shot per location/lighting change is sufficient). Do your colour correction in Photoshop by the numbers. Finally export the image to Adobe RGB tiff and it’s ready for print. If you scan to jpeg, you are throwing 90% of the data away. If you scan or save using SRGB, it’s even worse as the colour space is smaller again.
    Also, monitor calibration is a daily task in a professional environment. Most flat panel displays vary so widely in colour dependent on seating position it is a complete waste of time. Also factors such as ambient light (5000K) colour temp and room colour is problematic. Most calibrated environments use monitor hoods – another feature completely missing in consumer monitors.
    It’s not just the monitor that requires calibration… It’s the work environment as well.